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5 Romantic Cotswold Boltholes

 Swans in Love photo by wildphotonsAs the calendar turns from January to February and Valentine’s Day looms, you yearn for a romantic escape.  A Valentines weekend away is the perfect excuse to send your little terrors – er, I meant to say ”treasures” – off to Granny’s house so you can escape with your beloved to a tranquil bolthole in the Cotswolds (definition of “bolthole” for those of us who are American and may not be as familiar with the term: A place affording escape).

Located in west-central England, sometimes called the “Heart of England”, the area covers 790sq miles (about 100 miles from north to south) and is the largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England and Wales.  The gently rolling hills and honey-coloured limestone villages typify an area that is inarguably romantic, as well as filled with boatloads of enchanting boltholes awaiting your arrival.  Drivetime from London Heathrow is about 2 hours and can be accessed via the M5 or M40. 

With hundreds of Cotswolds villages and towns, there are an abundance of accomodations from which to choose for every taste, style and budget.  The following are 5 of some of the most idyllic:

Buckland Manor photo by miss insomnia tulipBuckland Manor – Located near Broadway in Buckland, Gloucestershire, Buckland Manor is an elegant country house hotel dating back to the thirteenth century.  Part of the von Essen collection of luxury country house hotels, it is situated on 10 acres with blissful gardens featuring waterfalls and fountains.  The hotel’s 13 splendid bedrooms offer stunning views of lush Cotswold landscape, lovely gardens and grazing land with cattle and sheep.   Romance Factor ♥: Rooms with four poster beds, rich fabrics, antique furnishings, warm bath robes, top notch cuisine in restaurant complete with candlelight dining and view of bucolic Cotswold hills, and 3 drawing rooms, one of which has wood paneling and crackling log fire.  Vibe: Intimate Old World Charm

www.bucklandmanor.co.uk – standard room from £195 per night

Calcot Manor and Spa - Located 3 miles west of Tetbury in Gloucestershire, this converted 14th century farmhouse is a classic and sophisticated retreat that has received numerous awards including Conde Nast Traveller runner up for favourite spa in a UK hotel 2010.  The hotel houses 35 “country modern” guest rooms with couples-only rooms located in the main house.  Décor is contemporary and sophisticated yet remains cosy and elegant. Romance Factor ♥: Best bet for spa-related activities; indoor and outdoor swimming pools, outdoor hot tub, 7 beauty treatment rooms, restaurant featuring Mediterranean-inspired dishes using fresh local produce, and beautiful Cotswold countryside views.  (Amore Alert: ”family friendly” atmosphere means toddlers may be on the premises) Vibe: Cotswold Chic 

www.calcotmanor.co.uk – from £240 per night inclusive of full English breakfast and VAT 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Cotswold Village photo by Stewart Morris

Cotswold Village photo by Stewart Morris

Cotswolds88 – Located in the beautiful village of Painswick, this trendy boutique hotel merges modern and vintage styles with its historic late Palladian stone building exterior and quirky Art Deco interior.  This 18th Century classical mansion houses 17 rooms with breathtaking views of the Cotswold Hills, many of which boast a different theme.  A black and white colour scheme is liberally used in common areas.  Romance Factor ♥: Funky décor, restaurant with French flair featuring fresh Cotswold produce, compelling wine list, stylish and intimate bar, Juliette balcony, lush green gardens. Vibe: Moneyed Hipsters

www.cotswolds88.com – one night midweek including breakfast from £95

Abbots Grange - This romantic, monastic manor house was built around 1320 and is located in the beautiful village of Broadway.  The five-star guest house is set in a little over 8 acres of private gardens and grounds overlooking the Cotswold countryside.  Features include luxury four poster and twin bedrooms, amazing Medieval “Great Hall” and “Abbots Cell” – both profoundly beautiful, and a private helicopter landing pad.  Romance Factor ♥: Sumptuous four poster beds, roaring log fires, antique furnishings, delicious and satisfying breakfast with local berries and fruits, magical and medieval atmosphere.  Vibe: Secluded Romantic Hideaway with a Medieval air

www.abbotsgrange.com - One night midweek from £100 inclusive of full English breakfast

Charingworth Manor - This 12th century manor house has a contemporary feel owing to its 26 recently refurbished bedrooms.  Located in Charingworth, near Chipping Campden, it also offers commanding views over the rural Gloucestershire countryside.  It also houses the intimate and award-winning John Greville Restaurant which uses locally sourced Gloucestershire produce.  Several rooms have private terraces and incredible garden views.  Romance Factor ♥: Luxurious contemporary bedrooms, some with four poster beds, roaring open fires, beamed ceilings, indoor pool, intimate restaurant, private terraces, stunning views.  Vibe: Relaxed Comfort

www.classiclodges.co.uk/Charingworth_Manor_The_Cotswolds – from £145 inclusive of breakfast, dinner, and bottle of bubbly

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Romantic Valentine’s Tea in London

She’s beautiful, and therefore to be wooed;
  She is a woman, therefore to be won.
      - William Shakespeare,
        King Henry the Sixth, Part I
         (Suffolk at V, iii) 

What better way to woo your valentine and win her heart than with a sumptuous, indulgent afternoon tea?  It’s sure to warm your love’s spirit during a chilly February day as well as celebrate the special love you both share.  If you’re looking for a romantic afternoon tea in London, there are a number of iconic hotels that provide the perfect atmosphere to make the occasion memorable and are sure to win your valentine’s heart.  

Swissotel the Howard, London - The five-star Swissotel the Howard is situated close to the River Thames and offers stunning, panoramic views of Big Ben, Tower Bridge, St. Paul’s Cathederal and other landmarks of the capital city.  The luxurious hotel has a contemporary vibe and serves afternoon tea in its cosmopolitan Mauve Lounge.  Among its achievements, The Howard received the Banking Industry 2010 ”Innovation” award for its whimsical “TLSee Afternoon Tea.” Conveniently located near Covent Garden and the theatre district, the Valentines Afternoon Tea includes a selection of flavored heart shaped shortbreads, savoury sandwiches, home baked scones, and a variety of unique sweets at a cost of £32 per person.  The special tea is served from 12th through 14th February 2011 from 11:00am until 07:30pm.  

Tea at the Palm Court, Langham Hotel

Palm Court at the Langham, London  

 - Afternoon tea at the five-star Langham Hotel is served in the dazzling Palm Court.  The Palm Court serves as centerpiece of the hotel and is renowned as the very place where the tradition of afternoon tea was born over 140 years ago.   This historic and enchanting tea venue also has the distinction of being awarded the highly coveted Tea Guild’s Top London Afternoon Tea 2010 award (akin to the Oscars of the tea world).  The Bollinger Bar at Palm Court is the perfect setting for a blissful tea with its deep ruby and sapphire furnishings and tables set with fresh flowers.  Perched at the top of Regent’s Street, closest to Regent’s Park Tube station, the Palm Court’s Valentines Day Afternoon Tea costs £49.50 per person and appears to be served only on Monday, 14 February 2011.  

Claridge's Afternoon TeaClaridges Hotel, London -  The historic five-star Art Deco hotel, located in swish Mayfair, will surely impress your valentine as it has many stars, socialites, and crowned heads of Europe for over 100 years.  Afternoon tea is served in The Foyer from which ceiling hangs the magnificent silver-white light sculpture created from more than 800 individually hand-blown glass pieces.  The elegant Valentine’s Afternoon Tea includes traditional English treats of pastries and savouries, light, crusty scones and rich clotted cream accompanied by a glass of champagne and heart shaped macaroons.  This seasonal tea is served from 7th February through 14th February, 2011 and costs £50 per person.    

The Royal Horseguards Hotel, London - This magnificent architectural gem, with Grade 1 listed status, was recently awarded London Hotel of the Year at the renowned AA Hospitality Awards 2010 – 2011.  The five star hotel is centrally located in Whitehall and its magnificent Victorian facade overlooks the River Thames.   Guests can enjoy a deliciously romantic afternoon tea in the lounge whilst sitting by the fireplace, dining at tables decorated with hearts confetti, red roses and candles.  The Valentine’s tea includes heart shaped champagne truffles, vanilla macaroons inflused with red roses, Love Heart candy cupcakes, and other decadent sweet treats.  The luscious offerings are also served with a glass of champagne and an assortment of scones, preserves, and clotted cream.  The tea is available from 11 February until 20 February, 2011 and is priced at £28 per person.  

Kingsway Hall Hotel, London - The four star deluxe hotel is located in the heart of Covent Garden.  Guests may enjoy Valentine’s afternoon tea in either the hotel’s stylish Harlequin restaurant or the modern, contemporary Lounge Bar.  The menu includes a glass of Cordoniu rose sparkling wine, a selection of finger sandwiches, fondant fancies, pistachio macarons, and warm scones and toasted tea cakes served with clotted cream and strawberry jame.  Served from 11 through 14 February, 2010, the tea is priced at £19.50 per person.  

 The Dorchester Hotel, London - This luxury hotel has hosted its share of high profile celebrities since it opened in 1931 and is ideally located in Mayfair on Park Lane overlooking Hyde Park.  The prestigious hotel houses several renowned restaurants and serves afternoon tea five times daily in the Promenade.  The afternoon tea is such an established tradition at the hotel that the warm scones served for tea are made from a recipe that has remained unchanged for over 50 years.  The decadent Valentines Champagne afternoon tea includes specially created valentines pastries and a gift for the ladies.  The cost for the Valentines Weekend Afternoon Tea is £48.00 per person and is served from 12 February through 14 February 2011.  

I’m confident that among these venues, you’ll find one perfect for you and your special valentine.  May you enjoy a romantic tea with the one you love and share William Shakespeare’s sentiments from The Tempest Act III, Scene I, “I would not wish any companion in the world but you.”

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British Travel 2010: From Ash Clouds to Snowtopia

 
Eyjafjallajökull ash plume by Gunnlaugur P Briem
Eyjafjallajökull ash plume by Gunnlaugur P Briem

Whether it’s taking in the sights and sounds of London (arguably the most beguiling city in the world), teeing off at a world-renowned golf mecca in Scotland, or mountainbiking through Betws-Y-Coed in Wales, there are thousands of destinations and possibilities that make touring the UK a transformational journey.  But UK travel during 2010 was at times less than ideal as travellers faced numerous disruptions, both natural and man-made. 

Turning the calendar back to the beginning of 2010, travel experts thought the year would usher in a period of recovery for airlines and passengers alike.  Instead, 2010 will be remembered for disruptions experienced by both.  Some characterize 2010 as “The Year of the Angry Traveller.”

Strikes: Was there a single month during 2010 when there wasn’t some sort or another transportation strike affecting the UK?  A UK court prevented Unite, the British Airways cabin crew trade union, from carrying out a Christmas holiday 2009 strike against the British flagship carrier.  But Unite eventually followed through on its threats and conducted a series of strikes lasting several days at a time durng May and June 2010.  BA successfully fought the strikes by training staff to act as strikebreakers and managed to operate most of its highly profitable long haul flights.  Unite continues to threaten additional strikes in 2011, but BA seems to have already proven its dominance and is likely to continue operations relatively unscathed.  New strike ballots are due 21 January, 2011 (yawn) with perhaps an Easter 2011 strike in the offing (more yawns).

The London Underground saw its share of strikes.  The RMT and TSSA unions began a series of strikes on the Underground in protest to job losses and related issues.  The strikes affected passengers during September – December 2010 and there are plans for strikes to continue into the foreseeable future.  The strikes are painful but Londoners have seen it all before and will continue to muddle through.

Strikes outside of the UK managed to have an effect on British travel as well.  During September and October 2010, French air traffic controllers and rail workers carried out industrial actions which affected UK Eurostar services.  Industrial action in Belgium during October 2010 created chaos for Eurostar services between the UK and Brussels.

Ash Cloud: The Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajokull sent a cloud of ash spewing into European and North Atlantic airspace during April 2010, grounding thousands of UK flights and stranding millions of passengers.  The eruption resulted in closure of UK airspace for 6 days.  BA airline chief Willie Walsh bravely flew in a BA jet during the closure to prove that there was no damage to jet engines from the volcanic ash.  Airspace reopened shortly thereafter.  Gotta admire his pluck.

Air Passenger Duty Fee Increase: The APD is a controversial excise duty charged to air passengers flying from a UK airport on a commercial aircraft.  Implemented in 1994, the fee was originally introduced as an environmental measure.  It has been increased numerous times since 1994, most recently in November 2010.  The increase will likely continue to negatively impact UK airlines (and UK travel in general).  It also encourages travellers to make travel plans at European airports outside of the UK.

Snowtopia:  January 2010 saw record cold temperatures throughout the UK and the media quickly reported that it was the coldest winter the nation had experienced in 30 years.  Fast forward to the end of the 2010, and experts believe the winter of 2010/2011 could prove to be the chilliest in nearly 1,000 years.  Transportation throughout the UK came to a halt during Christmas 2010 as roads and airports were crippled by heavy snow and ice.  London Heathrow Airport, the world’s largest, was virtually closed for several days, largely due to lack of a sufficient amount of de-icing equipment to deal with the inclement weather conditions.  Many passengers had nowhere to go and ended up sleeping airport terminal floors.  As the Big Freeze continued, Holidaymakers were urged to stay off the roads.  Eurostar train services were also affected. 

All was not gloomy for UK travel in 2010 and there were plenty of bright spots:

 
 
 
London Savoy Hotel by ianxn

London Savoy Hotel by ianxn

London Savoy Hotel Reopens:

The posh 5 star hotel, possibly the most iconic in the world, reopened on 10/10/10 at 10 am, a year and a half behind schedule and well over budget.  The £220 million refurbishment helped transform the hotel into one of the greenest and most efficient in the world.   Travellers throughout the world enthusiastically welcomed the re-opening of this most historic of hotels.

Preparations for London 2012 Olympics: Preparations for the 2012 Olympics continue on schedule.  The Olympic stadium is scheduled to be completed on time, unlike the games in Beijing.  The venue will be ready ahead of schedule and tests will be conducted to ensure the smooth operation of events.  London’s skyline continues to change as a result of related construction projects.  The building know as the Shard London Bridge remains under construction in Southwark, London.  It will become the tallest building in the European Union once it is completed in 2012, and its unique design makes it perhaps one of the most alluring.  The 5 star Shangri-La Hotel, housed on several floors of the building, will also open in 2012.

Royal Wedding: You could almost hear the cheers from London hoteliers, restauranteurs, and others who benefit from increased travel to the great capital as HRH Prince William announced his engagement to Kate Middleton in November 2010.  The wedding will take place at the historic Westminister Abbey on April 29, 2011 during a bank holiday.  Hotels are practically fully booked as this is posted.

Yes, there were a few bumps in the road during 2010 but bright spots shone through.  We begin 2011 with happy anticipation of a royal wedding and excitedly look forward to the London 2012 Olympics.  For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne.

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Hogmanay Celebrations in Scotland

photo by tony_s2008

“No,” I emphatically reply to one of my American friends.  Hogmanay is not some sort of New Year’s Eve college football bowl game involving the Arkansas Razorbacks [note: the University of Arkansas Razorbacks football team has a porcine mascot, in case you were wondering].  Nor is Hogmanay some sort of southern U.S. pork delicacy.  Rather, Hogmanay is the Scots word for the last day of the year and is associated with Scottish New Year’s celebrations which are reputed to be the world’s best.

There are many theories about the derivation of the word “Hogmanay.”  Some theories suggest the word has Scandinavian, Flemish, or Anglo-Saxon origins.  Presently, the belief is that the word derives from the French dialect word “hoguinane” meaning a gift given at the New Year or the word for New Year’s Eve itself.

 
 

http://flic.kr/p/4gHMxv

Torchlight procession in Edinburgh

It would seem that the Scots have a lengthy and rich heritage associated with Hogmanay and fervently welcome the New Year with a passion.  In fact, the Hogmanay celebrations last several days (from December 30 to January 2 [which is a Scottish holiday]) and are conducted in an exuberant fashion throughout Scotland as hundreds and thousands of revelers partake in a myriad of events including street festivals in Glasgow and Edinburgh, numerous live music concerts, and a torchlight procession in many Scottish cities. 

Historians believe the Hogmanay celebrations originated from the Vikings who took great notice of the passing of the shortest day of the year, especially since their lands were located far to the north.  Hogmanay cultural traditions in Scotland include cleaning the house on December 31, clearing all debts before “the bells” ring at midnight, and welcoming friends as well as strangers with warm hospitality as well as a kiss for good luck in the New Year.  “First footing” is still practiced in Scotland to ensure good luck for the house.  To assure prosperity, the tradition requires that the “first foot” to enter the house at the strike of midnight should be that of a dark haired male who brings whisky or perhaps shortbread.  It is believed the custom is a throwback to Viking days when the arrival of blond strangers on your doorstep usually meant trouble.  In more remote parts of Scotland, celebrants continue to enjoy Scottish dances (or ceilidhs), fireball swinging and lighting of fires – and, naturally, more kissing (and more whisky which leads to even more kissing).

As expected, it is also a tradition to sing immediately after midnight “For Auld Lang Syne” written by Scotland’s national bard and favourite son, Robert Burns.

Should auld acquaintance be forgot, And never brought to mind? Should auld acquaintance be forgot, And auld lang syne!

For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne.  We’ll tak a cup o’kindness yet, For auld lang syne.

For a full listing of Hogmanay events, you may want to visit: http://hogmanay.net.  The website features events from numerous Scottish locations ranging from Aberdeen’s Winter Festival Hogmanay Street Party and fireworks to the spectacular fire ceremonies in Stonehaven on the North East coast of Scotland, as well as many points beyond.  There is also some practical (as well as humorous) advice on the website for those unfortunate enough to be acting as the “Designated Driver” for Hogmanay events.  Additionally, the website includes links to accomodations in Edinburgh should you require a place to stay.

The biggest Hogmanay celebrations in Scotland take place in the cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow.  This year, 80,000 people are expected to join in the celebration in the center of Edinburgh (fewer than previous years due to budgetary considerations).  Although tickets for Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Concert in the Gardens, headlined by rockers Biffy Clyro, have already sold out, tickets for the Edinburgh street party remain available.  Tens of thousands of partygoers will join in the Glasgow Hogmanay Party in George Square as the city hosts one of Scotland’s biggest outdoor ceilidhs.

Several tour operators, including Haggis Adventures, offer Hogmanay tours, some of which depart from London.

So where will you be celebrating Hogmanay and ringing in the New Year?

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The Merriest Christmas Markets in England

Birmingham Frankfurt Christmas Market by Kenishman
Lincoln Cathedral and Christmas Market by DerekL
Lincoln Cathedral and Christmas Market by DerekL

Who doesn’t love Christmastime?  It’s a time to decorate the Christmas tree with twinkling white lights and brightly painted ornaments, enjoy listening to Christmas carols sung by a choir, shop for the perfect gift to share with that special someone, and try to recapture the magical traditions of youth.  Since medieval times, Christmas markets have played a large role in Europeans’ celebration of the season.  Traditionally, the markets would bring joy, companionship, good food and drink to many European villages during Advent. 

In the UK, the tradition of Christmas markets dates back to 1982 when a group of city officials from Lincoln, England were inspired by a visit that same year to the town’s German twin city of Neustadt.  The Lincoln Christmas Market was established in December 1982 and is currently the one of the largest of its kind in Europe with over 300 stalls.  The event is held each year on Castle Hill, close to the spectacular Lincoln Cathedral.  Spread over cobbled streets and beneath the majestic gothic Cathedral and Norman Castle, the festive event attracts around 170,000 visitors annually over a period of four days.  Stallholders add to the festive atmosphere by decorating their stalls with brightly glowing christmas lights and dressing in Victorian costumes.  They offer gifts for sale from local and regional craftspeople as well as traders throughout Europe.  The market also presents British food traditions including mince pies, mulled wine, and roasted chestnuts as well as a good selection of German treats such as bratwurst and sweet baked goods.  Update: The Lincoln Christmas market, scheduled to commence Thursday, 2nd December 2010 has been cancelled due to inclement weather.  An alternative Christmas market has been organized at The Healthy Hub, Beaumont Fee in Lincoln.  The market operates from Friday 3rd December through Sunday 5th December. 

Birmingham’s Frankfurt Christmas Market & Craft Fair is the largest Christmas market in the UK, having attracted more than 2.8 million visitors in 2009 over a period of four weeks.  It’s also the largest authentic German market outside of Germany and Austria.  The market and craft fair includes over 180 stalls for visitors to browse and enjoy.  Picturesque wooden chalets showcase handcrafted gifts such as wooden toys, Christmas decorations and dolls.  The market consists of 90 stalls in Victoria Square and in late November a smaller craft market sprouts in Chamberlain square.  Expect to find traditional German beer, mulled wine, sausages, and sweets.  In 2010, the event takes place from 18 November through 23 December.

Attracting visitors from around the UK and points beyond, the City of Manchester maintains a firm place on the Chrismas map with no less than eight markets scattered across the city.  New this year is the French Christmas Market in King Street.  All of the markets open on 18 November 2010 and run through 21 December 2010 with the exception of the Manchester European Christmas Market in Albert Square which does not conclude until 22 December 2010.  In 2009, a staggering 1.3 million shoppers visited the Manchester markets and guest traffic appears to be on track to increase during 2010.

Now in its ninth year, the Leeds Christkindelmarket is one of the largest German Christmas markets in the UK.  The Christkindelmarket is located in Millennium Square, surrounded by some of the city’s most historic buildings, and operates from 12 November 2010 through 19 December 2010.  The market features 40 wooden chalet stalls from authentic German traders.  Seasonal gift ideas include handcrafted toys, jewellery, and festive holiday decorations as well as an assortment of authentic German foods and drink.

Padstow, Cornwall is at its most magical in December when its Christmas Festival is held.  This year’s third annual Christmas Festival, which features a traditional Christmas market on the quay side of this seaside town, commences Friday 3rd December and runs through Sunday 5th December.   The market is comprised of stalls featuring unique Cornish gifts and traditional foods. 

This year Nottingham has replaced its annual German Christmas market with its “Winter Wonderland’s Traditional Market” held on Smithy and Long Row from 24 November 2010 through 09 January 2011.  The market is composed of stalls selling a variety of goods including handmade crafts, homemade foods, and an assortment of unique Christmas gift ideas.  Visitors can also enjoy a traditional Victorian section featuring roasted chestnuts, mulled wine and carol singing. 

The number of charming Christmas markets in England abounds and there are almost too many to mention.  Other notable locations include: Worcester, Canterbury, Bath, Oxford, Gloucester…. well, you get the idea – simply too many locations to discuss.  There are also a number of merry Christmas markets outside of England found in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland – but that will be left to another blog entry on another date.

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What’s a Man to Do in London?

Oliver Wendell Holmes, the oft-quoted 20th century jurist of the U.S. Supreme Court once said, “Man has will, but woman has her way.”  My husband would admit to the truth of this quote, but his words are less delicate – he says simply that he’s “beaten down.”  He doesn’t mind that I take the lead in planning our travel journeys, it’s just that from his point of view some of the itinerary is too “girly.”  In an effort to keep him happy on our frequent visits to London, I’ve come up with a list of places any man would enjoy.  [Note: I did not say anything about "taking" a man to any of these places because, according to my husband, the word implies obedience, e.g. like taking a dog on a walk.]    

Places Any Man Would Enjoy in London  

The Imperial War Museum London - The London branch of the Imperial War Museum, located south of the Thames, houses six floors of exhibits and displays related to the history of modern war, from WWI to the present.  The history of modern war and people’s experiences of war and wartime life in Britain and the Commonwealth are represented through the museum’s extensive archives, collections, and exhibits ranging from iconic warplanes, historic tanks, machine guns, photos and personal letters, sound recordings, and some of the 2oth century’s best known paintings.  The main atrium of the museum, called “the biggest boys’ bedroom in London,” showcases military hardware including airplanes, tanks, and even the remains of a car from an Iraqi suicide bombing.   The museum is open daily from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm and admission is free.  The closest Underground station is Lambeth Road on the Bakerloo Line, with about a five minute walk from the station to the museum.  

Cabinet War Rooms photo by Bill McNeal

Churchill War Rooms   

-  The Churchill War Rooms is a museum comprised of two parts: the Cabinet War Rooms and the Churchill Museum.  The Cabinet War Rooms is an historic underground complex that housed a British government command center throughout WWII, and the Churchill Museum is a biographical museum dedicated to the life of former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill.  The museum includes the Map Room, the Cabinet Room, Churchill’s bedroom, and an interactive table that allows visitors to access digitised materials documenting different periods of Churchill’s life.  The museum is located at Clive Steps, King Charles Street, London SW1, a short distance from Westminister tube station, served by the Circle, District and Jubilee lines.  Admission is £14.95 for adults and it is open daily from 9:30 am until 6:00 pm.  

HMS Belfast & Tower Bridge by nick.garrod

HMS Belfast – The HMS Belfast is a museum ship permanently moored in London on the River Thames, in Southwark near Tower Bridge.  Commissioned shortly before the outbreak of WWII, the ship was initially part of the British naval effort against Germany.  Today nine decks are open for the public to view, including an operations room, the Admiral’s bridge, and gun direction platform.  London Bridge tube station is a short walk to the ship and admission is £12.95 for adults and free to children under 16.  The attraction opens at 10:00 am daily and closes at either 5:00 pm or 6:00 pm, depending on the season.  

National Maritime Museum - Located in Greenwich, the National Maritime Museum is spread over several sites which were originally part of a 19th century school.  The National Maritime Museum includes the world’s largest collection of naval memorabilia and maritime art, while the Royal Observatory is home of Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian line.  The Royal Observatory, one of the most important historic scientific sites in the world, also includes a planetarium.  The Cutty Sark, an old tea clipper currently being restored, is located just north on the riverside.  The Museum is located a short walk from Maze Hill and Greenwich stations and can also be accessed via the Cutty Sark Docklands Light Railway (“DLR”).  Admission is free and the museum is open from 10:00 am until 5:00 pm daily.  

 

  

clock face by UK Parliament

Houses of Parliament Clock Tower Tours - 

Clock Tower tours of “Big Ben” are available to UK residents only.  Tours are available on request via residents’ local Member of Parliament.   Tours are free of charge and take place three times daily: 9:15 am, 11:15 am and 2:15 daily on Mondays through Fridays (excluding bank holidays).  Visitors are advised to be in good health and fitness as there are 334 spiral stone steps that must be climbed during the tour and no elevator/lift is available.  Westminister is the closest tube station, served by the Circle, District and Jubilee lines.  

Tower Bridge Exhibition – Tower Bridge, located in the heart of London, is an iconic symbol of the city as well as perhaps the most famous bridge in the world.  Visitors to the Tower Bridge Exhibition can enjoy stunning views of the River Thames from the high level walkways.  Anyone who loves mechanics would enjoy a visit to the Engine Rooms where Victorian steam-powered machines can be seen in action.  A multi-media exhibition about construction and operation of the bridge is also included.  Admission for adults is £7.  The nearest Underground stations are Tower Hill, on the District and Circle lines, and London Bridge on the Northern and Jubilee lines.  

Prospect of Whitby - photo by Steve Parkinson

Pubs, pubs, pubs!!! - What man doesn’t thirst for a satisfying ale or lager?  And what better place to enjoy a a pint or two than in one of the approximately 5,000 pubs and bars located in London and surrounding areas?  Pleasurable and interesting pubs abound but few are more famous than the Prospect of Whitby which dates from 1543.  It is also London’s oldest riverside pub.  Complete with a hangman’s noose that swings over the river, timber beams and a long bar counter built on barrels with a pewter top, the pub had a reputation in earlier times as a meeting place for smugglers.  The nearest tube stations are Tower Hill, Wapping and Shadwell.    

This is just a sampling of the many London venues a man would enjoy visiting.  I invite you to leave your comments and share your favorite spots.  For as Samuel Johnson famously said, “…when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”

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Posh British Afternoon Teas That Won’t Break the Bank

The inevitable outpouring of advice typically starts as soon as I mention that I’m planning another visit to the UK.  Well-meaning friends and colleagues begin to make suggestions, offer unsolicited advice, and share their opinions.  Some have simply travelled vicariously through British publications or television, others quickly breezed through the island-nation decades ago and assumed a level of expertise.  One travel topic that usually comes up is that of afternoon tea.  “Have you made reservations for tea at the Ritz?”  “You must try tea at Claridge’s.”  “Have you visited the Balmoral for tea yet?”  A glazed look comes over my face as I listen to these “posh nosh” recommendations.  I nod my head, feign agreement, and think to myself: “If they only knew.”
 
Without a doubt, there is no shortage of swish afternoon tea venues in the UK.  I, myself, always seek out the best tea spots in whatever town I’m visiting.  But I know that it is not necessary for a tea aficionado like myself to drop as much as £39 per person (as charged by perhaps the most “touristy” of the famed London tea locales) to enjoy a sumptuous afternoon tea.  In fact, there are a number of elegant hotels and tearooms throughout Britain that offer guests a splended afternoon tea experience for an amount that won’t break the bank.
The Lounge at the Cavendish London HotelThe Cavendish London Hotel, London, England: The Cavendish London Hotel is one such place.  The chic boutique hotel offers a classic afternoon tea served with a contemporary twist.  Located in the heart of London in the exclusive St. James area, the Cavendish London serves tea in The Lounge on its first floor where guests can relax in style on fashionable sofas and armchairs.  The sophisticated afternoon tea begins with an assortment of fair trade teas and coffees.  Next, the attentive but unobtrusive staff presents a three-tiered stand which includes savory sandwiches with free-range meats, fresh scones with clotted cream and organic preserves, as well as mini pastries, tartlets, and an assortment of chocolate truffles for added indulgence.  Most of the products included in the tea are locally sourced, consistent with the hotel’s philosophy of “giving something back to the community.”  Served from 2:00 pm and 5:30 pm daily, the cost for the tea is £17.00.  An outstanding value, I’d say.  I should also note that the Cavendish London is one of the oldest surviving hotels in the area.  The structure was first built in 1674 (although followed by major additions and reconstruction) and came under the ownership of the “Duchess of Duke Street” in 1904.  The hotel has recently won esteemed awards for Green Tourism (2008) and for Outstanding Customer Service (2009).Afternoon Tea at the Cavendish London Hotel

 

The Sheraton Grand Hotel, Edinburgh, Scotland: Afternoon Tea at the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa is a “must do” when visiting Edinburgh.  Located in the shadow of the dramatic Edinburgh Castle, the recently-renovated hotel offers a traditional afternoon tea as well as a seasonal menu that changes every two months.  The current seasonal offering includes an indulgent chocolate afternoon tea, created in collaboration with esteemed gourmet chocolatier Valrhona.  The chocolate afternoon tea includes dainty finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones, and a rich array of sweet chocolate treats.  The afternoon teas are served in the elegant and spacious Exchange Bar, complete with warm cherrywood paneling and furnishings in serene gold and blue tones.  The Exchange Bar includes a dedicated Chocolate Tea, Sheraton Grand Hotel EdinburghTwinings-trained tea staff, offering guests an extensive selection of rare and exclusive teas from around the world.  The loose-leaf teas are prepared at each guests’ table and timed to ensure each cup is perfectly brewed.  The afternoon tea is served daily from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm, and a pianist performs on Sundays from 3:30 pm to 5:30 pm.  The Traditional Afternoon Tea, which is offered throughout the year, costs £17.95  per person and the Chocolate Afternoon Tea is £19.95. 
 
Betty Cafe Tea Room, Yorkshire, England: In Yorkshire, Bettys Cafe Tea Room is your best bet for a posh, reasonably priced afternoon tea.  There are six Bettys tea rooms scattered around Yorkshire and all offer afternoon tea, although only two locations accept afternoon tea reservations.  Reservations may be made for the Belmont Room at Bettys York or the Imperial Room at Bettys Harrogate (which is 18 miles/29 km northwest from York).  The flagship cafe in York has a notably sophisticated appearance with art deco accents inspired by the magnificent RMS Queen Mary cruise liner.   The decor in Bettys York Belmont Room evokes the image of a luxury liner with large curved windows, rich wood paneling, and ornate mirrors.  The afternoon tea includes a pot of Tea Room Blend tea and is served on silver cake stands with fresh sultana scones accompanied iwth strawberry preserves and Yorkshire clotted cream, choice of two sandwiches, and miniature cakes.  Bettys products are handmade with high quality ingredients that are typically sourced locally.  The traditional afternoon tea is offered at a cost of £15.95 per person.  You may reserve a table for Afternooon tea in the Belmont Room at Bettys York on Sundays from 2:00 pm until 4:30 pm or in the Imperial Room at Bettys Harrogate on Saturdays from 1:00 pm until 4:00 pm and Sundays from 1:00 pm until 4:00 pm.  A cafe pianist provides musical accompaniment during the tea. 
 
Afternoon tea is one of the most quintessential British traditions around and perhaps the one I enjoy the most.  In these challenging financial times its comforting to know that a number of hotels and tearooms offer a quality afternoon tea experience that won’t leave a hole in your pocket.  So go ahead – recline, indulge, and savor the delightful occasion that is afternoon tea.   
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British Airways Bolsters Dallas Service

BA 747

British Airways, Europe’s third largest carrier, continues its commitment to passengers by adding seat capacity on its route between London’s Heathrow Airport (“LHR”) and Dallas (“DFW”).  The UK carrier plans to launch daily Boeing 747 service on its flights to and from LHR and DFW beginning around December 1, 2010.  The 350-seat Boeing 747-400 has approximately 70 more seats than the Boeing 777 currently in use on the route.  The Boeing 777 will be repositioned and used to add a seventh daily flight to New York’s JFK International Airport.  With this realignment, British Airways becomes the only airline with Boeing 747 service from Dallas. 

This is an exciting development not only for Dallas travellers but for those beyond the Texas borders for a number of reasons.  Increasing flight capacity translates into a greater number of business class seats available in British Airways’ “Club World” (as well as other classes of service).  Frequent travellers are hopeful the change will mean greater reward seat availability on British Airways flights.  Additionally, the move gives travellers greater opportunities for flight connections through LHR to points in India and Africa, as well as access to more than 400 destinations in over 100 countries worldwide.  But perhaps those most enthusiastic about the new service are the Boeing 747 aficionados who are thrilled at the prospect of flying in a wide-body plane, particularly on its alluring upper deck. 

British Airways’ plan to add capacity confirms that the UK-based airline is already gaining greater visibility and passenger access in the U.S. through its oneworld Alliance.   The oneworld Alliance, which was approved by antitrust regulators in July 2010, allows British Airways and its partners American Airlines and Iberia, to share scheduling, marketing and other business functions on trans-Atlantic flights.  The deal also allows the partners to share expenses and revenues.  The three partners have an extensive network built around key strategic cities, including Dallas/Fort Worth, which will continue to translate into more travel benefits and opportunities for passengers.  Incredibly, the alliance will result in control of almost 50% of U.S. flights destined for LHR.

The oneworld Alliance offers an integrated network with more flight choices, convenient schedules, and greater opportunities to enjoy rewards and privileges.  The three alliance partners recently integrated their frequent flyer programs to allow passengers the opportunity to earn and use miles interchangeably.  The alliance also allows more opportunities for passengers to use miles for upgrades, and permits greater flexibility in earning miles and qualifying for elite status.  In addition, the expanded relationship strengthens the competition across the Atlantic which may result in greater access to discounted fares. 

In summary, the oneworld Alliance adds convenience and provides greater benefits which make trans-Atlantic travel easier and more rewarding for passengers, whether travelling from LHR to DFW or points beyond.  Greater capacity equals greater access, which results in more opportunities for all.

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Cool Britannia: UK Travel With Your Tween

I can think of no greater enjoyment in life than heading out on a family getaway to the UK with my husband and ‘tween daughter.  You know what I mean when I say “tween”?  I mean one of those nine to twelve year olds who thinks they’re no longer a kid but is not yet old enough to hang out on their own.  Well, I’ve found a number of ways to keep my ‘tween daughter blissfully happy on our perennial visits to the British Isles.  If done properly, your ‘tween may even learn a thing or two without realizing that was your intent all along.

Read the Map/Mind the Gap: Involving your ‘tween in vacation planning is a great way to keep them connected to the entire travel experience.  They can help research prospective activities and destinations online and can entertain themselves by reading maps connected with the forms of transportation you’ll be using.  If you fly across “the pond,” hopefully your aircraft will be equipped with an In-Flight Entertainment (IFE) system.  I know from past experiences that both British Airways and American Airlines offer the IFE on their overseas flights.  Your ‘tween can monitor the flight’s progress from the map on the IFE and track the distance/time remaining as they keep themselves entertained.  While travelling on the London Underground, my ‘tween enjoys studying the map posted in each car of the train.  She knows better than I which station we’re at and where we’re heading.  She’s also amused each time a station announcer repeats the familiar refrain, “Mind the gap.”  This, of course, refers to the space between the train and the station platform.  This phrase never fails to elicit a giggle.

 
 

Selfridges on Oxford Street, London

Shopping: Every ‘Tween Girl’s Obsession:  Shopping is something my ‘tween never gets tired of doing.  If you’re a mom of a ‘tween girl, I’m sure you can relate.  I don’t mind shopping, but as a parent my wish is to fill our trips with visits to the plethora of UK historical sites with the goal of enhancing my child’s knowledge of history and literature.  How do I keep both of us happy?  When we visit an historical site, e.g., the Houses of Parliament, I stroll through the site’s gift shop with my daughter in tow after we’ve completed our tour.  This always seems to reinvigorate her senses and bring her back to life.  I also make an effort to intermix “educational” site visits with a stroll through a large store or interesting shop.  In London, my daughter’s eyes light up at the prospect of visiting her favorite shop, Octopus, with several locations including King’s Road, Carnaby Street, and Covent Garden.  I must admit that Octopus’ colorful and kitschy fashion accessory displays put a little extra bounce in my step as well.  Primark, the reasonably priced fashion and home store mecca with locations throughout the UK, is another favorite.  What ‘tween doesn’t enjoy the prospect of finding a flouncy, colorful skirt or that perfect pair of shoes for a paltry sum?  The Beauty Hall (Cosmetics Department) at upmarket retailer Selfridges, one of the largest stores in the world with locations in London, Manchester and Birmingham, also brings about that familiar, happy glow.  (Note to shoe aficionados: Selfridges on Oxford Street now houses the largest shoe department in the world). 

 

Photo by Still Burning

Art/Culture Need Not Be Dull:  You can typically count the seconds it takes for a bored look to display on your ‘tweens face when you mention the words “art” or “culture.”  Luckily, there are a myriad of interesting art and cultural sites and activities throughout the UK that will engage your ‘tween without much effort on your part.  I’ve always been successful in finding an interesting show at one of London’s many West End theaters.  What ‘tween wouldn’t enjoy the excitement of seeing Billy Elliot, Wicked, or Oliver! live on stageSure, they may whine and moan before the show begins, but count the few moments it takes before a smile magically appears on their face.  They will treasure the experience and conclude that culture on location is tres cool.

Make Literature Come Alive: I’ve adored British literature since I attended high school in the U.S.  I know my ’tween loves reading so I’m hopeful my interest will eventually rub off.  But even if its a struggle to get your ‘tween interested in literature, you can make the subject come alive while visiting the UK.  Taking the “Harry Potter Tour” is an exciting way to bring literature to life.  Tour companies with Harry Potter tours abound.  One tour company called British Tours (www.britishtours.com) offers day tours to Harry Potter sites in London, Oxford, and Gloucester, all of which were used as locations for the Harry Potter films.  The tours range in length from 3 to 10 hours.  A visit to London’s King’s Cross Station leads to magical Platform 9 3/4 while highlights in Oxford include Hogwart’s staircase and dining room.  Another company called Lynott Tours (www.lynotttours.com) offers 7 day tours from London to Edinburgh.  A little internet research or a recommendation from a friend will help you find the tour that will suit your needs.  An older ‘tween may be interested in visiting the Bronte Parsonage in Haworth, Yorkshire, Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage in Grasmere (The Lake District), or Keats’ House in Hampstead, London.  The paths to exploring English literature are many and are sure to inspire your young reader. 

These are but a few ways to encourage your ‘tweens sense of adventure and make your family trip an unforgettable experience.  Enjoy your time together as a family and keep in mind: you can’t put a price on family memories.  Please feel free to comment and add your suggested strategies for keeping your ‘tween(s) engaged on your travels.

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